Buttonhole-sewing machine



Feb. 13, 1923.

G. S. HILL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

ORIGINAL FILED OCT-13,1917.

,WMVZW W i me 1 Y) all 107107)), may concern:

I sewing mechanism Patented Feb. 13,

"wires "l d lh il enonen's. HILL, or

N EVT JERSEY.

STRAFFORD, NEVV HAETPSHIRE, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATE RSON, NET/V JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF BUTTON'HOLE-SEVJING .MACHINE.

10, 1919. Serial No. 288,905.

Original application filed ember 1a, 1917, Serial No. 196.418. Divided and this application filed April Be it known that I, G-nonon SJHILL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Strafford, in the county of Strafford and State of New Hampshire, have invented certa in new and useful Improvements in But tonhole-Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be afull, exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

he invention relates to mechanism for sewing overseams and more particularly to mechanisms upper needle, alooper which takes a loop of upper needle thread below the work, and an under needle which carries a loop of its thread up through the loop held by the looper and into position above the work for the passage down therethrough of the upper needle.

One feature of the invention contributes to the speed and accuracy with which the parts of the stitch forming mechanism may be operated. This feature contemplates actuating the upper and under needles of the from two cranks on the sewing shaft, one of which is connected to transmit a simple harmonic motion to the upper needle bar, while the other is connected with the mechanism which oscillates and dips the under needle through pivotally supported connections which transmit to the under needle the difierential movements requisite for properly and accurately timing it with relation to the upper needle. actuating mechanism may be run at high speed without material wear or strain on the parts, while ensuring the proper co-operation of the needles and looper in the stitch forming cycles.

Further mounting; the rotary head which carries the upper ne edlebar and to the means for controlling the thread at certain points 1n the stitch forming cycle.

The invention will be readily understood from the inspection of the accompanying drawingsand the following detailed description of the mechanism therein. r

in the drawings, Fig.1 is a front elevation of a buttonhole sewing machine em-' clear and stitch forming comprising an i This features relate to the manner of illustrated bodying the invention in its preferred form, and Fig. 2 is a detailed side elevation showmg the thread controlling the mechanism.

I This application isv a division of application 196318 filed October 13, 1917, which shows and describes the machine in which the invention has been embodied. The machine comprises in general a cutter for cutting the buttonhole slit a work clamp which is movable lengthwise and laterally of the buttonhole, and stitch forming mechanism which is rotated during the sewing about the eye and about the bar end of the buttonrole. 7

The stitch forming mechanism comprises a straight eye-pointed upper needle 2 which is. arranged to penetrate the work a short distance from the edge oi the buttonhole slit, a curved eye-pointed under needle l which is arranged to pass up through the buttonhole slit and which at the upper end of its stroke is dipped to throw out a loop down tlrrough which the upper needle passes, and a looper 6 arranged below the work and operating to take a loop of upper needle thread and to carry it into such position that the under needle will pass up through it during its 11 I stroke. needle is secured in the lower end of a hollow needle bar 8 which is mounted to reciprocate through and turn with a rotary head 10. y The needle bar is reciprocated by a crank 12 carried on the forward end of the sewing shaft 14 and connected by a linl: 16 with a sleeve 18 held between collars on the bar, The pivot pin 20 for the lower end of the link projects'beyond the rear face of the link and engages a bearing block arranged to reciprocate in a guideway 22 formed in the machine heath and acting to guide and steady the upper end of the needle bar.

The under needle is mounted upon a. rotary turret 24 and is actuated by a second crank 26 formed on the sewing shaft and engaging one end of a lever 28 supported intermediate its ends upon a swinging tulcrum pin 30 projecting from an arm 32 pivoted on a stud 34. The outer end of the lever is 38 secured to one end of a An arm 42 is secured to the other end of the roclrshaft 4-0 and is connected by a ball and socket joint with the lower end of a hollow The upper v the crank 'upward stroke of the upward as the like thelooper of Patent No. Li

link 44, the upper end oi which is connected to an arm projecting from a rock sleeve 46 on theturi'et. The rock sleeve is provided with a vertical arm 48 which is connected by a link 50 with the swinging carrier 52 in which the upper needle is mounted. The arm 48 and link 50 are so arrangec that the pivotal connection between them passes the line of centers at the end of the under needle, so that the needle is dipped to form a loop for the passage therethrough oi the upper needle.

The swinging" arm 32 on which the crank lever 28 is fulcrumed is so arranged and the partsare so proportioned that during the first part of the revolution in the drawings the iiulcrum 30 will swing crank 26 moves downward, thus giving a rapid movement to the end of lever which is connected by the link .36 with the under needle mechanism. The under needle is therefore quickly advanced to its upper position and dipped while the upper needle is starting its downward stroke, while the return stroke of the under needle is delaved until the upper needle has passed through the loop of under needle thread and has penetrated the work. The loo-per 344046. dated March 30, 1915, and is operated from the rock sleeve 46 in a similar manner.

By properly proportioninp; the crank lever and swinging fulcrum arm 32. and properly arrangins 'the arm, the movements of the under needle and looper may be accurately timed with relation to the movements of the upper needle when reciprocated by a simple crank movement, and. the sewing mechanism 'may be driven athigh speed without strain or material wear upon the parts.

The rotary needle bar head 10 in which the upper 54, which may be formed upon or secured to the sleeve in any suitable way, and is connected with the mechanism for rotating the stitcl' forming mechanism. The lower part of the sleeve is fitted to turn in the bearing in the head of the machine while the upper part of the sleeve is iitted to turn in abearinpg'block 56. The bearing block is provided with grooves on its side which engage shortribs 58 formed on tlie head of The head is recessed above block may he slid vertically into position between the ribs and then secured by the screws 60. This construction provides'an adequate bearing short light bar for the needle bar so that a may be used, and also efficiently supports the rotary head or sleeve by bearings ar ranged both above and below the point at strip 62 between the oi the sewing shaft from the stopped position indicated 6 is constructed and arranged is mounted. is in the form of a sleeve projecting,- above and below the gear which the actuating means through which the sleeve is rotated is connected with the sleeve.

The upper needle thread leads from a thread supply through the holes of a. guide discs of a tension 64, through guides 66, 68, o'verpin 70, and under the vertically adjustable guide finger 72, from which it passes to the upper end of the hollow needle bar. The threadpasses down through the needle bar through an opening at the lower end of the bar, and thence through suitable guides or light tension de vices to the eye of the needle. During the sewing the thread is acted upon by a thread controller 74 carried by the link 16 and arranged to pass out between the guides 66 and'68, and to take up slack in the upper needle thread when the looper releases the loop taken by it during previous reciprocation of the needle.

While it is preferred to employ the specific construction and arrangement 0i parts shown and described partcularly in embodying the invention in the machine of the. application above referred to, it will be understood'that this construction and arrangement is not essential to the broader features of the invention, and may be varied or modified as found desirable or best suited to the constrnctionoi the machine in which the invention is to be embodied.

Whatis claimed is 1. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a vertically reciprocating upper needle bar and an oscillating under needle and looper, mechanism for oscillating and dipping" the under needle, a crank for reciprocating theupper needle bar, a. crank for operating the under needle, a crank lever, a shifting t'ulcrum for thelever, and connections from the end of the lever to the mechanism ior oscillating and dippingthe under needle.

2. A. buttonhole sewing machine having,

. inconibination, stitch forming mechan'ism comprising a vertically reciprocating upper needle bar. a crank connected to transmit a substantially simple harmonic movement thereto. an under needle, mechanism for oscillating; the under needle and dipping it at the upper end of its stroke, a crank lever having); one end connected to said mechanism,

a crank engaging the other end of'the lever,

a nd a shittablc tide-ruin {or the lever.

23. A buttonhole'sewing machine havin in combination, stitch 'iorming mechanism comprising a. vertically reciprocating upper needle bar, a crank connected to transmit a substantially simple, harmonic movement thereto, an under needle. mechanism for oscillating the under needle and dipping it at the upper end o'fits stroke, a crank-lever having one end connectedto'said mechanism,

a crank engaging the other end of the lever, and a pivoted arm on which the lever is tulcrumed.

1-. A. buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a vertically reciprocating upper needle bar and an under needle and looper, a sewing shaft, two cranks on the shaft, a link connecting one crank to the upper needle bar, mechanism for oscillating and dipping the under needle and operating the looper, a lever having one end engaged by the other crank and the other end connected to the oscillating and dip-ping mechanisms, and a pivoted arm on which the lever is fulcrumed.

5. A. buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating upper needle bar and an under needle and looper, a crank, a link connecting the crank and bar, a sec-0nd crank, alever one end of which is engaged by the latter crank, connections between the other end of the lever and the under needle and looper, and a pivoted arm on which the lever is fulcrumed.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising upper and under needles and a looper which holds a loop of upper needle thread below the work, a crank for reciproeating the upper needle, stationary thread guides, a thread controller operated by the crank and playing between the guides to control the upper thread when released by the looper during the downward stroke of the needle.

7. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combinatlon, comprising upper and under needles and a looper, stationary thread guides at one side of the upper needle bar, mechanism for reciprocating the bar, and a thread controller given an orbital movement between the guides by the bar-actuating mechanism to control the upper thread when released by e looper.

v 8. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising upper and under needles and a looper, a. crank for reciprocating the upper needle, a link connecting the crank to the upper needle bar, stationary thread guides at one; side of the link, and a thread controller carried by the link and playing between the guides.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a vertically reciprocating upper needle bar, complemental under mechanism, a rotary sleeve in which the bar is mounted, a fixed bearing for the lower part of the sleeve, a bearing block for the upper end of the sleeve, vertical positioning ribs engaging slots in the sides of the block, means for securing the block in position, and a gear on the sleeve between the bearings.

GEORGE S. HILL. 

